There are so many beautiful and intriguing places in the world; the choice of destinations for intrepid travellers seems never-ending. So why is it that so many of us plan trips to countries that are either dangerous or politically unstable, or worse, under the rule of a violent or repressive regime? This is a question I am wrestling with now, hiding out from the monsoon rains on the waterfront in Phnom Penh planning my travels. I really want to cross the border from Cambodia, (itself, not boasting the most reputable, stable or humane leadership), and make my way into Burma/ Myanmar. But should I?
The Conundrum
If we applied our strictest ethical codes to every travel destination decision it would difficult to be entirely satisfied with any country as our final choice. I am an Australian and must admit that our hit and miss treatment of, and attitude towards, our indigenous people means it could be argued that this amazing country should be avoided by the more sensitive tourist. Moral concerns about China’s human rights reputation, for example, could be enough to deter many travellers from visiting that great land no matter how enthused they were about seeing the Great Wall or the Terracotta Warriors. But can an entire country be judged by the decisions of its leadership?
Responsible Travel
The list of countries with less than satisfactory leaders overseeing unsound social policies is long and the decision about whether to visit them or not must come down to what sits well with the individual. Arming yourself with details of the history and current political situation and determining how you can make a visit beneficial for the locals should help the responsible traveller feel comfortable with their final decision.
The Tourism Boycott
So to the background for my concerns about Burma/Myanmar. In 1989, Aung San Suu Kyi, the leader of the opposition party, the National League for Democracy (NLD), was placed under house arrest by the military dictatorship which had maintained a stranglehold on power since a coup in 1962. The rest of the world was appalled at the actions of the military junta, so those who wished to support her drive for democracy heeded Aung San Suu Kyi’s call for Western people to avoid her country for tourism purposes. It was her belief that to travel there would serve as a symbolic acceptance of the actions of the regime and it would tangibly serve to support the military rulers financially.
The Impact
Tourist numbers were subsequently limited due to the moral boycott, but it’s arguable what effect this had on the regime. They maintained power throughout this period and Aung San Suu Kyi remained under house arrest for 15 years in total out of 21 before her ultimate release. It was ordinary people who struggled; they were isolated from the world and access to the benefits of a modern free society. Surely having access to people from the West would have provided much needed employment and brought money to workers in related industries. In such countries, however, the tendency is for tourists to engage in ‘safer’ package tours and pre-arranged experiences and inevitably in Burma/Myanmar these were generally under the auspices of the government, so travel dollars went straight to the oppressors rather than to those in need.
Change
Since 2010, however, the political landscape has changed. Aung San Suu Kyi was finally freed and national elections have been held. While these weren’t shining beacons of the democratic process, the efforts of the current military leadership to relinquish power have been significant. The change in tone of the Burma/Myanmar regime was such that in 2011 Aung San Suu Kyi’s party lifted their ban on tourism, however, the NLD insists that larger package tours, such as cruises, should still be resisted.
How To Do It Right
Researching hotels, tour and transport providers and restaurants that are government funded is a good start. Avoiding any state sponsored accommodation, tours or activities or exploitative attractions is the way to ensure the people draw maximum benefit from your trip. Independent travel is a direct method for travellers to help the private sector benefit from their travel money. But if you would still like to use a tour company there are now those that work closely with the local people and eschew government links. Copious websites provide all the responsible travel information you will need.
Power To The People
Foreigners bringing their crisp United States Dollars, (most Burma/Myanmar ATM’s don’t accept foreign debit/credit cards, so all of the dollars required for the trip must be brought in by the traveller- in mint condition to avoid rejection!), will be bringing a cash injection into the country. The trick is to ensure that the money makes it into the correct hands- the peoples’.
The Decision
Ultimately, I’ve decided to visit Burma/Myanmar. In part, because I have an incredible opportunity to experience such an untouched and unique region, but also because I’ve convinced myself that to visit at this time is an endorsement of the efforts of those who are trying to bring Burma/Myanmar into the 21st century. If I can make smart travel choices that help the local people help themselves then I’ll feel just that little bit better about making a visit to a country with a leadership that still leaves a lot to be desired. Here’s hoping Aung San Suu Kyi is given a fair chance in the 2015 national elections!
