You might not have heard of Molise, and considering it’s Italy’s second smallest region you can be forgiven for that (the absolute smallest is Aosta, by the way, a miniscule little patch of land that makes up the north westernmost part of the country), but if you visit Italy because you love the food, then Molise is one region that you should make a detour to visit.
It’s located on the east coastline, just above the ‘spur’ that shapes the boot, and there’s a reason that this little region, in a country where cuisine is part of its lifeblood, is so important. It’s all to do with the landscape. You see, back in the 1970’s Molise didn’t exist on its own. Instead, it formed part of Abruzzo, which still exists today. The divide came about for political and governmental reasons, but the result was a new independent region of Molise that was forced to rely heavily on agriculture.
Molise is a mountainous region with a good stretch of coastline of its own. Its economy came, and still comes, from the transient shepherds with their flocks of sheep, the excellent fishing and the high altitude where unusual and often rare herbs grow well. And all of this means that when it comes to food, locally grown and sustainably sourced, the people of Molise really know what they’re doing.
I spent a few weeks there three of four years ago, and although I never went just because of the cuisine, it was one of the things that left a lasting impression on me. Just inland from its main coastal city of Termoli I came across a fabulous restaurant that for all the world looks like somebody’s house, and in fact that’s exactly what it used to be. The La Guardata sits on a hill, a farmhouse tucked away amid a sea of fields. It serves authentic Molise foods, like scapece de licette (fried anchovies in vinegar with plenty of herbs and spice), spicy stewed octopus and other typically Italian dishes, just with added flavour.
I sat for hours that evening, in their typically Italian trattoria, surrounded by checked tablecloths and candles jammed into green glass carafes, listening to the animated chatter of the local who are clearly fond of their ‘local’. I tried mouth-watering meatballs with wild fennel seeds, a flavour combination I wouldn’t have thought of, and used my limited Italian to avoid the roasted tripe ragu.
The best thing about the food in Molise is the cost, because nowhere else in the world will you get to enjoy such fresh and flavourful food for so little. A few Euros can buy a generous mountain of fresh pasta in any one of the little village restaurants, where aging mamma’s still roll the dough by hand. And for a few coins more, you can accompany your meal with a glass of locally made Molise red wine, a staple drink in this part of the country.
So, next time you’re planning a trip to Italy, and you want to expand your horizons, take a trip across the Apennine ridge to Molise (it’s a 2.5 hour drive from Rome, and less from Naples). Discover the intimate archways of Isernia and the cobbled town square of Campobossa, and uncover some of Italy’s most influential dishes on your own culinary odyssey. I can guarantee you – and your taste buds - won’t be disappointed.
Six hundred GB Pounds buy you the following amount of Euros:
Established in 2008, Travelfx are solely an internet business providing an alternative to a Bureau de Change with some of the best exchange rates online. The company has been ranked 34th in the 2012 Sunday Times Fast track 100.
Established in 1973 ICE Plc is one of the largest and most respected retail foreign exchange operators in the world with a combined annual group turnover in excess of US.8 billion and with over 300 branches in addition to providing an online service.
Established in 2008 with one mission, to bring the retail foreign exchange business online identifying an opportunity to redefine how people purchase travel money. The team of three partners has over 30 years experience in the retail foreign exchange market.
Established in 1979. Moneycorp also have retail bureaux de change at Gatwick, Stansted, Southend and Southampton airports, and across Central London. They provide next day delivery and can deliver on Saturdays for an additional fee
The post office is one of the most recognised brands for holiday money in the UK. They allow you to order your travel money online and collect it from any Post office branch or have it delivered to your address for free.
Established in 1981, Covent Garden FX is a family-owned and operated Bureau De Change located in the heart of Central London, providing some of the best exchange rates online for branch collection or home delivery.
Established in 1976 the business has grown to become one of the most recognised travel money brands in the UK with over 1,100 branches worldwide. They also provide wholesale services to many banks and supermarkets.
Established in 2007 with three bureau de change branches in London as well as running a postal delivery service in the UK with a focus on reputation, trust, reliability and quality of service.
Established in 2011 by Ben Wakeham, a young travel mad entrepreneur who wanted to simplify the purchase of holiday money and use the internet to allow consumers to gain better exchange rates than long established travel money providers.
Established in 2002, FairFX cut out the middle man and use state of the art technology to execute your orders and deliver holiday money to your door while eliminating the cost of running expensive foreign exchange kiosks.
As a well known British high street retailer, M&S stock one of the widest ranges of currency on the high street (up to 42 currencies) available online, by phone or in store operating as one of the most competitive providers for those needing to purchase last minute from one of their 120 stores nationwide.
Established in 1968 and acquired by RBS in 2000, foreign exchange forms part of the general financial services offered by the bank. You can purchase notes or travellers cheques for collection from your local branch or home delivery.
