Christmas Time, Umbria Style

The central region of Umbria, Italy’s only landlocked province, has long attracted travellers to its hilly landscape. Its scattered towns, dotted across the rolling green landscape, are known as the birth places (and occasionally the resting places) of high profile Saints, historical figures and ancient Roman leaders. From St Francis Assisi, Italy’s patron Saint, to the elusive mercenary, Erasmo of Narni, the history books show Umbria as the equivalent of a VIP area in a popular nightclub – everyone wants to get in. So it’s hardly surprising that when it comes to the most famous celebrity of all, Umbria welcome’s Father Christmas with open arms.

Christmas is celebrated in style here, with festival after festival throughout the winter season. It all kicked off in a little town called Greccio, where St Francis recreated the region’s first ever nativity scene. It was 1224, and in preparation for mass he built his own manger, filled a trough with straw and borrowed some local livestock to fill the makeshift barn. These days, many Umbrian towns follow suit, although the original is still held in Greccio and is considered the best.

Not to be outdone with outlandish celebrations, the townsfolk of Gubbio also demonstrate their commitment to Noel in mammoth proportions. Every year they build an image of a Christmas tree on the lower slopes of Mount Ingino. At 800 metres long and 400 metres across, it takes teams working round the clock to complete it on time, and the fairy lights themselves have over 500 bulbs and a network of wires that run for at least 2km. The end result is pretty impressive, and you can see the spectacle from miles away.

Head to Citta di Castello on Christmas Day and check in with the local canoe club. They hold their annual regatta mid-afternoon, heading down the River Tiber in their Santa outfits with sweets to throw to the children impatiently lining the banks. It’s a glorious sight, hundreds of flickering fairy lights adorn the boats, and spectators bring their own torches and flames for lighting as the evening draws in.

By the time Christmas is over, most countries are getting back to normality, but in Umbria the festive season isn’t over until the good witch appears on January 6th. Most of us know that date as Epiphany, but here, Umbrian’s also call it Befana. The story goes that when the three kings went looking for Christ they stopped and asked directions of a local woman nearby. She sent them towards the manger but declined an invitation to join them, later realizing her mistake. Umbrian children are told that she’s destined to spend eternity searching for the manger to bestow gifts on the child, and along the way hands out sweets to all the good boys and girls she finds. If you’re in the region on this date you’ll have the chance to buy bags of wonderful sugary sweets for a few Euros. They’re made just for this occasion – but be careful not to pick the black ones, because they’re reserved for naughty kids only.

Tales and legends aside, you can lose yourself in the palpable Christmas spirit of these tiny Umbrian villages. Santa Lucia near Foligno hands out aniseed wafers made from a recipe over 1000 years old, Panicale delights with the sound of the Umbrian Gospel Choir, and the Jazz Winter Festival in Orvieto brings New Year in with a bang. 

There are many places around the world where Christmas is done well, but if you’re looking for a festive break this year, Umbria is always a great choice.

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Written by Fiona Galloway
Member of The international Travel Writers Alliance
Chief travel writer - Currency Today